Guides · 8 min

How to Choose the Right GSM for Your Apparel Line

GSM is the single most quoted — and most misunderstood — number on a fabric spec. Here’s how to pick the right weight for each product, and what else to check.

NProduction team (placeholder author)· 2026-XX-XX

What is GSM?

GSM stands for grams per square metre — the weight of one square metre of fabric. Higher GSM usually means a denser, heavier, more opaque fabric; lower GSM feels lighter and more breathable.

But GSM alone doesn’t define quality. A 180 GSM combed ring-spun jersey can feel far more premium than a 220 GSM open-end yarn fabric.

TIP

Always specify GSM after washing and finishing, with a tolerance (typically ±5%).

Recommended ranges

Typical weight ranges by product (placeholder reference values — confirm with your own fabric tests):

ProductLightMidHeavyNotes
T-shirts140–160180–200220–300Lightweight summer / fashion tees vs heavyweight boxy streetwear tees.
Hoodies & sweats240–280300–350380–500Mid-weight for layering; 400+ for premium heavyweight drops.
Polos180–200200–230240–260Piqué weight drives structure and collar stability.
Activewear120–160170–220230–300Leggings need higher weight for squat-proof opacity.
Workwear200–240250–300300–400+Wovens are often specified in oz/yd² instead of GSM.

Beyond weight

  • Yarn — combed ring-spun vs open-end changes softness and pilling.
  • Knit structure — jersey, rib, piqué, interlock and terry behave differently at the same weight.
  • Finishing — brushing, enzyme wash and garment dye change hand-feel and final GSM.
  • Climate & season — your customers’ market matters as much as your aesthetic.

How to verify GSM

Use a GSM round cutter (100 cm² sample) and a precision scale: weight in grams × 100 = GSM. Test at least three points across the fabric width, before and after washing.

NOVAFAB

We include GSM test results in every fabric approval pack. (Placeholder claim — adapt to your process.)

Quick checklist

  1. Define the product’s season, market and price point.
  2. Pick a GSM range from the table, then shortlist 2–3 fabrics.
  3. Request swatches and wash tests before sampling.
  4. Lock GSM ± tolerance in your tech pack.

Not sure which weight fits your line?

Send us your product brief and we’ll ship a free swatch set (placeholder offer).

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